Helping your mare bring new life can be one of the most exciting yet stressful moments of your life. With so much time and money invested, not to mention the great emotional investment, it can be wonderful yet stressful to help your mare deliver a young and healthy foal. Here are some baby basics for helping your mare birth a new life.

You should strive to learn everything you can about parturition before it takes place. Some mares make it very obvious that they are ready to give birth, while others may simply lie down with no other indication. How can you tell that your mare is ready to give birth? The first real indication of parturition involves the distension of the udder that first appeared two to six weeks before giving birth. The second indicator should become obvious around seven to ten days before birthing. This happens when the shrinking muscles in the hindquarters become evident and the ligaments and pelvic muscles begin to relax. Roughly four to six days before giving birth, the nipples will fill with milk. You may notice a waxy secretion on the nipple that will stay until roughly 24 hours before birthing. The waxy secretion will fall off and the milk will be allowed to drip when the mare gives birth.

In the first stage of birth, the mare may appear restless and nervous, constantly getting up and lie down. You may notice the following signs: sweating, switching her tail, frequent urination and mild signs of colic. This stage takes about two to three hours until the uterine contractions begin. Stage two is characterized by the ejection of up to five gallons of chorioallantoic fluid, such as when her water breaks. This first stage tends to begin at night.

The second stage of birth is technically known as activation. In this stage, uterine contractions will increase and the cervix will become dilated. You may notice that the mare lies down and gets up several times. The feet of the foal will come out, the bottoms of its hooves facing down with the nose just behind them. This activation stage usually takes about 10 to 15 minutes.

The expulsion of the foal comes next. This is stage is when the mare lies down and begins her labor. An increase in uterine contractions will push out the foal in roughly 15 minutes. In most cases, the mare will lie down, allowing herself about ten minutes of rest. Meanwhile, the foal will orient itself to its new surroundings. If the umbilical cord does not break immediately following birth, the chord will probably break off when the foal stands up for the first time. The stump should be treated with a solution of iodine after the chord breaks off.

The last stage of parturition involves the ejection of the membranes. During this period, the mare can very well experience abdominal pains. These will be similar to symptoms of colic. This final stage normally happens within 15 to 60 minutes. Contact your veterinarian immediately if the placenta has not been passed after six hours. The placenta must be passed; otherwise it can cause serious problems including infertility, laminitis and metritis.

Fortunately, most mares do not have exceptional difficulty during parturition and develop dystocia. Allow your mare plenty of privacy during this period, but do keep an eye on progress carefully. Your mare does not need you in the stall coaching her, but you should definitely watch the process through a window or by using a monitor. The parturition process most commonly begins at night, with special delivery occurring normally in the early morning. The process can occur fairly quickly. Problems are most likely to occur during stage two, also known as the activation stage. Whatever you do, never rush a mare into delivery. Keep your vet in close contact in case anything should go wrong.

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Anyone who expects to raise healthy livestock these days should know the basics of animal vaccination. The new horse owner should be no exception.  Here are a few basic medical terminologies of vaccination that you will probably grow more familiar with as you learn more about vaccination. These include, oxoid, antitoxin, passive and active immunity and complex term attenuated vaccines. Here is a brief overview that will hopefully get you up to speed in case you don’t recognize these terms.

Passive Immunity

Passive immunity is most often described as the amount of resistance power that the mother passes to its offspring through the first milk. Antiserum injections are artificial means for passing such temporary resistance. This important antiserum is made from the blood serum of animals that already have developed this immunity. These provide protection against canine distemper, human measles and other diseases.

Active Immunity

Active immunity describes the process of antibodies in systems that are created by the animal itself after contracting and recovering from a disease. This principle is used in the development of all kinds of vaccines.

Attenuated vaccines

All vaccines are initially produced from viruses that produce diseases in a weakened state. This ensures that the vaccinated test subject or animal does not contract the deadly disease. Only a mild version of symptoms of a disease can help ensure long lasting immunity. A virus is either dead or living, but attenuated known as the modified live virus.  Another type of active vaccine is known as the toxoid, which combats the toxins of a bacteria rather than a virus.

The Horse Owner’s Guide

Horses are highly prone to viral and bacterial attacks. These attacks are often of varying degrees, from mild to debilitating diseases. Most horse owners don’t recognize the importance of a scientific and well-planned vaccination program. This can be a key factor for the successful management of your horses. Your horses have a greater chance of contracting diseases on the move. A charted immunization program provides a basic care plan for a horse to remain viable and healthy. A vaccination program will vary depending on the type, number, and purpose of the animals reared. You will need guidance from a good vet for putting together a good vaccination program.

A Few Common Tips For The Vaccination Program

Visit your vet to get started on a good vaccination program. Your horse will likely require booster doses of vaccines. These are the most important and should be administered at suggested intervals. You should follow your vet’s recommendations carefully and follow the vaccination program to a tee.

Besides the vaccination program, you should make sure to rear your horse in a healthy environment, providing proper nutrition that helps build disease resistance. You will also want to administer the correct vaccine at the right time. A vaccination can be counter-productive if not given at the proper interval or dose.

Vaccines should always be kept in refrigerated conditions. Gloved hands should administer them. Be careful not to use expired vaccines that may not act on the animals.  Administering the injection can be tricky. Beginners often make the error of giving a subcutaneous injection in place of an intramuscular injection, which tends to defeat the purpose of vaccination.  Always give the proper doses and use a clean and hygienic syringes or disposable needles. You will most likely require the help of a vet to set up your vaccination program.

Vaccinations are to be used in order to prevent sickness or to reduce the intensity of illness.  Make sure you understand the whys and how’s of putting your horse on the right kind of vaccination schedule. This is a crucial part of keeping your horse healthy, happy and disease-free for years to come.

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Any new horse owner will tell you of the joys of being a newly minted horse owner. However it can be a very confusing time for new owners when it comes to trying to figure out what, when, and how much to feed your new equine friend. Hopefully, this article will help take some of the guesswork out of learning to care for and feed your new horse.

The first thing you need to do is evaluate your horse’s current condition. Here are some questions that you should ask yourself: Is the horse too fat?  Is he too thin?  Is he working? Do you ride the horse once a week, or does he get ridden or driven every day?  All of these questions must be asked in order to determine what kind of feeding schedule you should put your horse on.

Once you have determined the current state of your horse, it is time to come up with a good feeding schedule.  No matter what kind of feeding schedule you put your horse on, there is one thing that every horse needs, and that is salt. Make sure to provide your horse with a high quality trace mineral block and a white iodized block, allowing him free choice.  Salt provides horses with many important minerals.  Your horse will lick and chew on his salt and mineral blocks, as his body requires these.  

If you own a horse that is more content to stand and graze all day, provide him with a healthy mix of grass hay and a grass/alfalfa mixture. Some horse owners choose a timothy and clover mixture. The most important thing is to not overfeed alfalfa or clover to a less active horse.  However, if your horse is more active and demands more energy, feed him hay that contains a higher protein content, such as the alfalfa or clover.

If you want to give your horse a treat, give him hay and grain. However, make sure not to go overboard.  The last thing you want to do is kill your horse with kindness.  This will only lead to bigger health problems for you and your horse.  Too much grain is often associated with horse health problems including Founder and Colic.  Both of these are serious health problems that can cause your horse real pain.  

For horses that are thin or idle, feed them eight ounces of corn, oats, or commercial feed a day.  This amount of grain will help promote a coat that is nice and shiny. This will also help provide nutrients that your horse may not be getting in his hay or grass. 

Feed is often fed in pounds, especially when you’re dealing with bigger and more active horses. A1000lbs horse will require approximately 10lbs of feed of commercial feed hay per day.  Pay close attention to your horse’s behavior and activity level before setting a firm feeding schedule. 

Make use of nutritional guides for new horse owners in order to learn more about feeding your horse. Be willing and prepared to make any necessary adjustments to your horses diet base. Always be willing to make adjustments. One of the most important things to remember in relation to feeding your horse is that, if you decide to change, you must do so very gradually. If you are going to change your horse’s diet, make sure to do so over a slow period of 7-14 days to prevent any digestive system problems.  Remember that in the spring of each year you should only turn your horse out for an hour or two a day for the first few days of the season. This helps to reduce digestive problems by gradually increasing your horse’s time spent on grass.

An excellent way to increase a horse’s taste palate is by feeding him carrots and apples. There are many commercial products and supplements currently on the market. Make sure to help out your horse by getting to know his health and activity level before establishing a healthy feeding schedule.

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You are a newly minted horse owner. You finally made your dream of home ownership come true, but you don’t know what else you need. Here is a brief overview of tack that may be helpful to you, as you become an experienced homeowner. Here is a list of tack: bits and spurs, headstalls and reins, breast collars, saddle pads and blankets, saddles, halters and cinches. Here is some information on tack and the correct way to use it.

As you probably already know, the bits go in the horse’s mouth. These are commonly designed to teach communication between the rider and horse. The bits allow you balance your horse from left to right and front to back. The bits also help you teach your horse how to bend his neck and throatlatch. This will help the horse turn in both directions. Most horses don’t enjoy bits. If they are new to them, they will try to spit them out. However, a little patience and perseverance will go a long way.

Spurs are for built for you, the rider. Spurs hook onto your boots and help you communicate with the horse how to obey, move forward, turn, backward, turn and gallop when you kick the horse. This should work as an immediate action. The horse may not like this right away, and may try to buck you. Eventually however, the horse will get used to the spurs. 

Headstalls are also commonly known as the ‘head piece’. Headstalls fit over the horse’s head, allowing for control over the horse.  Reins are attached to the headstalls and allow control over the horse.

The reins are attached to the headstall. These are what you hold onto when you ride. Pull the reins left if you want to turn left.  To go right, pull them right. Don’t pull the reins tight when you’re galloping. Let them hang slack. To stop, pull back on the reins. Think of the reins as your personal steering wheel. You have to learn how to drive and control them in order to get where you want to go safely.

Next up, the breast collar. This collar fits over the horse’s chest. It is a leather strap that passes around the front of the horse and above his foreleg. Then it is attached to the rings of the saddle.

A saddle pad is the answer to blisters. This is simply a blanket or pad that fits on the horse’s back. The saddle is placed over the saddle pad, which is used for protection to the horse. The pad works so that the saddle won’t rub on the horse, thus causing sores or burns.

A blanket can also be used like a saddle pad. It is used to drape over your horse when they are in the trailer. A blanket is a great way to protect your horse against insects or weather.

The cinch is simply a wide strap that will help attach the saddle to a horse. The strap goes from one side of the saddle and under the horses belly to the other side of the saddle.

Halters are made of good quality leather or rope. They fit around the horse’s neck or head and are used for leading a horse around.

A saddle is the seat you sit on when you ride your horse. The saddle comes equipped with a saddle horn in the front, which you hold onto so you don’t fall off. The saddle also has stirrups on the side. You put your feet into the stirrups so you don’t fall off. Think of the saddle as your look out point. Think of it as the driver’s seat.

If you don’t know anything about tack, contact your local feed store or western store and start learning. There is perhaps nothing more important than learning how to use these things correctly. A good tack supply store can tell you what you will need, and how it’s used. You don’t need the most beautiful tack in the world, just a good quality tack. Your horse isn’t going to be impressed by an expensive saddle when you’re out working cattle, and you don’t necessarily need all of the tack stated above. But it’s a good idea to experiment to see what works best for your horse and you. Make sure to do your research about the best tack for your horse and activity level.

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There are almost as many opinions on the proper feed and care of horses as there are different kinds of horses. Much of the “correct” kind of feeding will depend on what kind of work, if any, your horse does on a regular basis. Here is a general overview on how to feed your horses properly.

The most important thing is to make sure that your horse has clean, fresh water readily available at all times. Horses surprisingly consume more water in the cold months of winter than in the warmer months of the year. There are many different ways to make sure that your horse gets a fresh supply of water at all times of the year. One of the easiest ways to do this is to use poly stock tanks. You can purchase these at most farm stores for a nominal fee.  These tanks make excellent water containers because they don’t crack when it’s freezing outside. There are even tank heaters that you can use in order to keep the water from freezing as well. Make sure to put a cage around that submersible tank heater in order to prevent it from melting a hole in your tank.  Any old plastic tub will work if you want to save money. Make sure to regularly clean the container with full-strength bleach to kill any algae that may grow. Of course, you will want to rinse out your tank to get rid of any traces of bleach.

Make sure to buy a tank and hoses that are rated for feeding.  Some hoses contain ingredients that make them unsuitable for carrying water for animal or human consumption. Check the label carefully in order to make sure you know what you are buying.  Water hoses come in many different sizes and lengths. Some even come in collapsible form, which works well for those colder climates where water will freeze inside the hose in overnight temperatures. 

Here are some other basic guidelines on feeding horses. First, make sure you have a trace mineral block and an iodized salt block for your horse.  These provide the essential vitamins and minerals your horse needs on a regular basis. Your horse will lick or chew the block, as they require minerals.  These blocks can be found at most feed stores and most farm-related stores as well.

Feeding your horse may depend on your horse’s individual needs, so make sure to contact your vet if you have any questions. Every horse is different and the correct feeding schedule will depend on activity level, age, geographic location and various other factors.

If you live in an area where the grass is dormant, you may want to supplement your horses diet.  In cold climates, grain may be needed in order to help your horse maintain a healthy weight during those cold winter months. Quality grass hay can be purchased from feed stores. When choosing the right kind of feed, consider crimped oats, cracked or rolled corn, all of which make good feeds for horses in need of something extra during those cold winter months. This can help their metabolism in keeping them warm and healthy. Make sure to address any special dietary concerns with your vet.

One feeding problem that is becoming more common is over-feeding an idle horse. This often happens when a horse consumes more than he can burn off during exercise will do more harm to him than good. How can you tell if your horse has gained too much weight? Here is a good rule of thumb: you should ideally be able to run your fingers along his rib cage with light pressure and be able to feel the horse’s ribs.  If you find that you have to lean into the horse and press down your fingers to apply heavy pressure, there is a good chance that your horse may be overweight.  Overweight horses often suffer from extra stress on their hearts with the extra fat, which makes it harder for the heart to pump blood to the rest of the horse’s body. Make sure to consult your vet if you think your horse may be overweight.

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The condition known as choke afflicts many horses. Do not be confused-this is not the sort of choking that we humans have to worry about, although it is a potentially serious condition.

As you probably know, choking in humans involves the windpipe becoming completely obstructed, thus limiting one’s ability to breathe.  However, the condition of choke in horses is not quite the same thing.  In a horse, the choke afflicts the esophagus and not the windpipe. Most often, a horse’s choke may be afflicted while eating. Many horses have the tendency to eat too fast. When a horse eats too fast without completely chewing its food, there is always the potential to choke. There are certain foods that have gained a reputation for precipitating a choke episode. These foods may include pellet feeds and hay cubes. The foods are now gaining in popularity because of the ease of transporting them. Other culprits include supplements such as beet pulp.  Beet pulp is particularly dangerous if it is not properly soaked before feeding. There is always the threat that if beet should come into contact with the saliva in a horse’s mouth, it can absorb the liquid and expand.

One of the most difficult aspects of dealing with horse choke is that it can be a difficult problem to spot. Many times, the only indications that you may get that your horse is suffering from choke is that it’s not eating or drinking. Another symptom of choke is discharge from the nose that contains food particles. 

If you suspect that your horse is suffering from choke, it is very important that you remove all the foodstuffs from the area.  Make sure that your horse has plenty of clean fresh water at all times, and prepare to inspect your horse carefully. What should you look for?  Sometimes you may be able to feel a lump on the side of the horse’s neck from the food that is causing obstruction. Very carefully, you may be able work it loose from outside the horse’s body.  However, if your horse is still demonstrating signs of choke after an hour, it is time to call your vet. When the food cannot be worked loose from the outside, your horse may need surgery to remove the obstruction in its esophagus. Fortunately, surgery can often be avoided required if the problem is caught early enough.  Your vet may opt to give your horse a sedative. This can help relax the horse enough to allow for the blockage to be swallowed and passed down his throat. 

If you aren’t sure if choke is what’s causing your horse trouble, your best bet is to always consult your vet.  Your vet has the expertise to deal with these confusing situations, and may opt to pass a deforming tube into his esophagus with water or mineral oil poured into it. This can help loosen, break up, and move the blockage.  It is imperative that all horse owners learn about choke, a condition in horses that can often be confusing because it may resemble colic or other stomach ailments.

Unfortunately, since your horse can’t speak and tell you what’s wrong, it’s up to you as the owner to watch its feeding closely and monitor any problems before they escalate.  If you suspect that your horse is suffering from choke, the first 72 hours are crucial. This is due to the swelling and stretching of the esophagus muscles that can occur during this period, and the stress a horse is under when it’s spamming. 

If you suspect choke in your horse, there are many steps you can take to prevent choke in the critical hours that follow a choke episode.  Your vet may give you an anti-inflammatory to administer to your horse to reduce the swelling of the esophagus and help reduce the likelihood of a recurrence of choke.  You may also have to augment your horse’s diet as well. Many vets instruct owners to feed horse bran mashes or other softened foods in the first 72 of a choke episode.

When dealing with a horse choke episode, be sure to check with your vet to determine whether or not to offer the horse water.  There are many opinions on this subject. Some people feel that with a horse with symptoms of choke should not have access to water. If the blockage is severe enough, your horse may take water into his lungs, which could result in pneumonia or a lung infection. However, this only occurs on rare occasions and water may help soften the blockage if it is not too serious, thus the controversy.

There are many ways to prevent choke, although it can be difficult since horses are curious by nature and can get hurt in a padded stall.  When learning the facts on choke, it is advisable to discourage the horse from gobbling his food. If you have a horse that tends to swallow more than it can chew, try putting softball size rocks in his feed tub to slow down his eating.  This will cause the horse to push the rocks out of the way with his nose to reach the feed pellets, thus slowing down his eating pace.  Even placing a mineral or salt block in his feeder can help slow down a feed-wolfing horse.

You may also want to consider making gradual changes in the type of feed you serve.  Another easy precaution is to check your fences for loose pieces of wood. Horses are sometimes tempted to chew on wooden fences, and these pieces of wood may become lodged in his esophagus.  When feeding treats to him, make sure to cut or break them into small pieces.  Corncobs, although a popular treat, is a potentially bad food that can cause choke.  If your horse is prone to choke, take a walk around your horse’s paddock or pasture.  Anything smaller than softballs should be removed from the vicinity to keep the horse safe.

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