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Every pet deserves its own first aid kit, and horses are no exception. But what exactly should you put in your horse first aid kit? The key is to put one together right now, in the unfortunate case that your horse should suffer a near-fatal accident or injury. Wherever you go with your horse, you should make certain to take a first aid kit along. Putting together a first aid kit for a horse isn’t as difficult as you think it might be. If you are not sure what to include in your horse first-aid kit, here are some of the staples and essentials that you should include.

The first thing you will need is a container in which to house all of your first aid supplies. Some viable options may include a five-gallon pail with a lid. Another option that can work is a small travel suitcase. Make sure to mark it clearly as your horse first aid kit. Easy recognition is key in the event of an emergency.

Here are some basic items that should be a part of your horse first aid kit:

A good first aid book for horses, preferable with good visuals.

Antiseptic ointment preferably suited for large animals.

A thermometer

Scissors

Several pairs of latex exam gloves

Alcohol prep pads

Paper towels

Iodine

Saline (pharmacy grade)

10cc Syringes

Hydrogen Peroxide

Sterile Gauze Pads

4×8 or larger cold packs

Polo Wraps

4″ vetrap

A tourniquet

Plan to spend at least around thirty dollars to purchase and set up with your first horse first aid kit.  Another good idea is to keep your veterinarian contact information inside of the horse first aid kit in order to be able to get in touch with your veterinarian in case of an emergency.

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Of course, you should feel free to mix and match your horse first aid kit according to the specific needs of your own horse. It can often be challenging to decide what goes into your horse first aid kit. Everyone has differing opinions on what you should put in a first aid kit. What you put in your first aid kit will depend on what you think you will need. For instance, you can plan ahead and add anything you might need for a horse show or event. Imagine that you are at an event where a horse has lost its shoe. It would be very handy to have an Easy Boot.  Or perhaps one of your horses gets colic, but no one has Banamine on hand. Or perhaps you see a horse that has torn off his shoe going around the ring. This can often lead to a chunk of hoof wall being ripped away from the horses hoof. Wouldn’t you like to be the soul who has a rasp to file the rough edge and thus prevent him from injuring himself on his own hoof?  Make sure you think ahead and include all those accessories that are necessary for treatment. A cold pack won’t do you any good if you don’t have a way to keep it secured to your horse’s injured leg. Simply include some duct or electrical tape and that should do the trick. These are some materials that will help bandages stay in place. What else should you include in your horse first aid kit? Flashlights are absolutely necessary in order to see what may be stuck in your horse’s hoof at night. Even in the light of day, you may need that extra light to look under his belly.  When it comes to putting together the ideal horse first aid kit, you will find that it is better to be overindulgent rather than not keeping it fully stocked.

Putting together a horse first aid kit is a great project to get kids involved with your horse care.  You can even pay a visit to your local 4-H club and pose the same question to them. You may want to ask what should go in a first aid kit. This can lead to a lot of fun discussion as well as educational time for everyone. You can even have fun with it, such as making the discussion a scavenger hunt. You can hide the goods, and as they find them, have them describe the items and their use.

When it comes to putting together a good horse first aid kit, remember that what goes in it could be as important as what you don’t include in it.  Remember that if you have the gauze pads to cover a wound with nothing to hold them onto the area, then the gauze simply won’t do you much good. You can use tape, bandages or vetrap.  Make sure to think as far ahead as you can when putting together your horse first aid kit.

Consult your vet if you still have questions about what to include in a good first aid kit.  Your vet will probably even help you get hold of the best quality supplies that you can get for your first aid kit.

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Every horse owner should know that there are four basic types of parasitic worms that commonly make themselves at home on a horse’s body. These worms can make feeding and walking in the pasture a very miserable and even challenging experience for your equine friend. A horse with too many worms in its body can even potentially die. It is recommended that a horse is de-wormed on an annual basis. This helps ensure that worms will not survive or multiply and take over your horse’s body.

If you have any questions about which medications work best for preventive de-worming, contact your vet. There are many medications on the market today that can kill one or more species of worm. Horses most often contract worms from poor living conditions, while other horses contract them when they have been mistreated or have drank from contaminated drinking water. What can you do to make sure your horse stays healthy? Make sure to cleaning out their stalls and refresh their water everyday in order to prevent spreading the worms to the other horses living in the stable.

There four types of worms that most often attack horses. These are strongyles, tapeworms, ascarids, and bots. The first three of these worms can infect a horse through the feces. This can occur when a contaminated horse leaves feces on the ground and another horse steps on it. Eventually, the feces will get into the feed, grass and water supply. Strongyles most often seem to affect younger horses. The larvae develop in the arteries, gut wall and liver. Larvae travel through the body and move towards the large intestine where they will live out their life. Once burrowed in the large intestine, strongyles will feed on the digested food. This means that few nutrients are left for the horse, causing your horse many health problems. Potential health problems include stunted growth, intestinal problems, artery collapse and even death. Horses are often contained according to age and health after a suspected strongyles outbreak.

The least common type of infection includes tapeworms. Tapeworms are also transferred by unclean stall conditions and through feces. Tapeworms can potentially live for years inside the stomach lining of its host. If tapeworms gather in the stomach, it can lead to blockage and premature death. Tapeworms can be up to twelve inches long and keep your horse from ingesting proper nutrients from their food. Horse breeders can do many things in order to prevent the spread of tapeworms. Feed should be rotated in order to make sure it is free of feces. Clean stalls can also help prevent the spread of parasites. If stalls are cleaned, tapeworm infestations should not be a big concern. Getting rid of a tapeworm is far more difficult than spending time trying to prevent it.

If the head of a tapeworm is not removed with the rest of its body, it can sustain itself in the horse’s body for a long time. Treating them with medicine takes time, so prevention is definitely your best bet.

Ascarids are another type of worm that can affect the liver and the small intestine of your horse. These are similar to strongyles in that they affect younger horses. Proper cleaning of stalls is important in keeping ascarids infestation to a minimum. If not treated, colic or aneurism can result in premature death.

Bots are transferred a little differently than these other worms. Insects transport bots infections. They land on the horse’s hair, most often via flies, and then the horse ingests the eggs. These eggs turn into larvae on the horse’s tongue and eventually the worms make their way to the animal’s stomach. There they live on digested food and stomach acids, resulting in a smaller and weaker horse that is being starved of the right nutrients. Bot eggs should be removed by cutting them out of horsehair. They can be wiped off with warm water, thus preventing your horse from swallowing them.

In order to prevent all kinds of infestations, keep your horse’s stalls clean and refreshed every few days with new hay and grass. Change your horse’s drinking water at least once a day. Regular grooming will prevent bots and other worms from being ingested. Separate younger horses from the older ones during pasture in order to prevent the spread of strongyles and ascarids. Since worms are so easy to spread, make sure to keep all horses clean and stalls fresh.

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Draft horses are often thought of as the classic workhorse. By definition this means that the horse has been adapted for drawing heavy loads. Sometimes workhorses are also described as dray horses or draught horses. A workhorse is not always breed specific, but the description is often used for any breed of horse that is physically suited to pulling heavy loads. As you probably know, there is a big difference between the workhorse and the show horse.

Here is a brief overview of the workhorse. The Draft horse comes from Europe, and it is thought to precede the invasion of the Romans. There are many popular breeds that have traditionally been known as workhorses. These include Shire, Percheron, Belgian and the Clydesdale horses. These classic workhorses are large and known for their endurance, strength and good disposition.

The Belgian horse is perhaps one of the most popular workhorses and a long history of pure European descent, becoming most popular during the Middle Ages. As its name implies, the breed was exported from Belgium and into many European countries between the 15th and 16th centuries. The Belgian horse was imported into the United States in the 1880s. It was slow to gain favor because of its large and slightly cumbersome appearance. This horse is known for its barrel-like, burly appearance and its coat, which is normally chestnut or sorrel in color. This popular workhorse stands about 17 hands or 68 inches and weighs in at over 2,000 pounds.

The Clydesdale is a workhorse favorite that comes from Scotland. This breed is often compared to the Shire horse, although it’s not quite that heavy. The Clydesdale is characterized by its springy and graceful step. Clydesdales became very popular due to their good disposition. Tradesmen who used them to transport commercial goods have also favored them. The Clydesdale is a favorite of today’s horse enthusiasts who appreciate the beauty of this horse. Clydesdales have white markings on the face and legs, a lavish feathering around the fetlocks and average a height of roughly 16 hands or 64 inches. They are known to weigh in at around 1,800 pounds.

Another breed of draft horse that was developed in North Western France is the Percheron, of Flemish origin with some Arabian horse blood. The Percheron is a very heavy horse but still has a considerable amount of stamina and is a very good trotter. Armored knights and general freight labor used this horse in the Middle Age. This was once considered the most popular draft horse in America, famous for its natural beauty. Percheron coats are nearly always gray or black in color. These horses stand just over 16 hands in height or 64 inches and weigh in at least 2,000 pounds.

Another large powerful draft horse is the Shire breed. They closely resemble the Clydesdale in size, weight and height and originate from central England. They are known for having long lustrous hair that grows from knee to hock.

Many horse lovers prefer the show horse, although the workhorse continues to remain viable. Show horses are very different than the average workhorse. The breed standards of show horses strive to produce the best athletic horse. The most desirable traits of a show horse may include:

1. Motion: A show horse must demonstrate visible power and balance from the hindquarters. The front legs should demonstrate extension and flexibility.

2. Neck: A show horse has a high neck on the shoulder. These horses have a fine throatlatch and are shapely without a pronounced crest.

3. Head: A show horse has a short and small head with large eyes and small ears. The facial profile should be straight or concave.

4. Withers: The withers are to be pronounced, with a very deep and laid back shoulder.

5. Proportionate: A level top line with a proportionate hip.

6. Legs: Straight and correct.

7. Bone structure: A refined structure throughout, especially in the girth, chest, shoulders and hips.

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Grooming your horse need not be a stressful practice. If you are new to horse grooming, you will find that it can be difficult at first. You have to be willing to create a trusting relationship with your animal and learn your pet’s quirks. There are some horses that require extra attention and grooming, so it pays to learn early on what your horse needs.

If you are a newly minted horse owner or a beginner, you may not know where to start. Here are some ideas on how to start your bathing ritual. Begin with a pre-bath enhancer. You can create your own pre-bath enhancer using household items such as vinegar and olive oil. Mix two equal parts of each together for a natural coat soak. Sponge it onto your horse and leave it for up to three days. Make sure to plan this ahead for the right time of the year.

The next step is to apply a little petroleum jelly to your horse’s hooves before using water. Water is surprisingly damaging to hooves. Water can cause your horses hooves to dry out or become easily cracked. Don’t apply jelly if you plan on sanding the hooves.

Now it’s time to prepare your horse shampoo mixture. Use a baby shampoo for horses with sensitive skin and hair. You can use the horse shampoo for sale at your local pet supply store. Make sure to dilute the shampoo, no matter what the bottle says. For bringing out your horse’s natural color, try a color enhancing shampoo for horses. This is a nice way to get your horse’s colors to stand out.

If you plan on braiding your horse’s mane, you should not shampoo or condition it. Keep it wet and use hair gel after bathing, because using shampoo or condition will make it difficult to braid it.

There are some areas of your horse that may be difficult to wash or clean. If you are afraid of getting too close, consider getting a second pair of hands to help you out. Try to remain calm as your horse can read anxiety. Horses are amazingly sensitive animals and can tell when you are anxious about something.

Hot oil is one trick you can use if your horse’s tail is dry and brittle. Choose a hot oil treatment that is intended for humans. In most cases, you will see instant results, enjoying the shine of a moisturized tail.

For rinsing your horse’s tail, use some apple vinegar and rinse with water. This is a great mixture to remove shampoo. Apple vinegar also makes a great rinse because it repels flies, thus helping your horse remain comfortable.

Remember to apply a sheen product to the tail area and the body before it dries. Do not apply it to the saddle area, girth or mane, as these areas are sensitive. Instead, use a small cloth to get your horse’s face. If you don’t have a sheen product made especially for horses, use some baby oil in your rinsing water instead.

Finish up your bathing process with a steel wool cloth and lightly take the dirt off of your horse’s hoofs. Use saddle soap and neat’s-foot oil to take care of cracking hooves. An old home remedy is to use bacon grease for this problem.

Bathing a horse is a lengthy and involved process, but it must be done right. Despite the challenges, anyone can learn how to bathe a horse the right way. With some patience and knowledge, you too can give your horse the bathe of its life.

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One of the smartest things you can do, as a newly minted horse owner is to learn about the various safety issues that you need to learn in order to interact with your horse. Even the gentlest horse has the potential to hurt you if he should become startled or scared. Horses do not necessarily need to be aggressive in order to hurt humans. Accidents happen, but you can prevent many of these accidents simply by understanding that your horse is much larger and stronger than you. Horses are most often gentle giants that can sustain wonderful relationships with human beings when the proper safety measures are being taken. It is wise to remember that horses, by nature, are prey animals. They have the ability to react quickly and out-run a predator in the wild. Even in domestic horses, this survival instinct still remains strong. 

Here are some tips that can help you avoid kicks, bites, trampled toes, drags, or runaways. Try not to feel overwhelmed by all this information. Simply take it slow, observe and read.

1. Leading: Always remain calm and quiet when you lead your horse. Avoid sudden movements, which can cause a horse to jump sideways or kick out. The best and most safe way to lead your horse is by using a halter and a lead rope. Through a doorway, you want to make sure that the door is open wide enough so that your horse doesn’t hit the door on the way out. You should also avoid hooking your fingers through the straps of the halter, nor the bit or the ring, for if your fingers could become trapped and injured, you will likely be dragged.

2. Standing: Always avoid standing directly behind your horse. When you’re grooming the tail, try to stand off to one side and gently pull the tail over to you. Never kneel or squat when cleaning the hooves or applying bandages. Your goal is to be visible to the horse at all times. The safest place to stand when you are around your horse is either beside his shoulder or at least ten feet away.

3. Finger and toes: Take good care of your fingers and toes when handling your horse. When you are using your reigns, long lines or lead ropes, you should loop them around your hands or any other body part. You could be injured and dragged if you are not careful. Use a bucket or tub when you feed your horse treats in order to avoid your fingers from being mistaken of a carrot. Footwear is important when you are dealing with horses. Avoid thin shoes or sandals around horses, and opt instead for boots or other sturdy steel-toed shoes.

4. Quick release: Always tie up your horse when you’re cleaning a stall, grooming or saddling up. You may want to learn how to tie a quick release knot (panic snap) in case the horse feels the need to free himself in some situations. Never leave your horse unattended.

5. Mount up: Wear the appropriate riding gear before mounting up. Begin by protecting your head by wearing an ASTM approved riding helmet. You should also wear sturdy boots with minimal tread and short heels. The boots you wear should make it easy for you to enter the stirrups, release your foot easily and not slip through. You should always feel comfortable and in control in your gear.

6. Communication is key: If you are going on a ride, always let someone know where you’re going.

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Horses require a high percent of fiber content in order to stay healthy and keep the normal function of the digestive system working. For most horses, the normal requirement of roughage for a horse is determined in relation to its body weight. In general, a horse should receive 1.5 percent to 2 percent of its body weight in roughage a day. However, this may not always be possible. Most vets agree that animals should receive roughage totaling a minimum of one percent of its body weight.

Along with hay and pasture feeding, roughages are a vital component in the diet of a horse as it is the primary source of digestive energy, protein, and also provides a small percentage of requisite vitamins and minerals.  Generally speaking, the requirement of food per day for an average animal is estimated at around 3 percent of its body weight. You should consider a few factors before deciding on the feeding schedule. You should be willing to adjust grain content according to the stage of growth of your horse, lactation, and the volume of work besides the expected body condition.

What exactly does the term “roughage” mean? Roughage refers to the high content fiber feed that most horse need. The expected minimum fiber content should not be less than 18 percent in crude form. Hay and pasture are the normal roughage foods. However, there are also many other alternate feeds that can be used to replace both hay and pasture feed.

It is very common for most horse owners to compromise on their hay and pasture feed supply on a daily basis. During a period of severe drought, roughage may become too expensive. Under these circumstances, roughage may not be replaced completely or else the quality may be lowered. In these times, grains with moderate levels of fiber content may be used. Alternate feed should contain eleven to fifteen percent of fiber. Keep in mind that low fiber content cannot replace the hay and pasture benefits. A change in feed may should be done very gradually. Make sure that your horse gets at least one percent of its body weight in roughage per day. The remaining portion should be filled by the required quantity of moderate fiber feeds.

Most horses ideally require one to two percent of their body weight as roughage in the daily feed. A normal mature idle horse may require roughage of 1.5 to 2 percent of its body weight. Some working horses may require even more due to the intensity of their work. A mare in late gestation or lactation may be seen as a workhorse for the purpose of feed content. In other cases a weanling and yearling will require comparatively lesser quantity of roughage.

Here are some of the alternate kinds of feed that can either be partially or fully replaced for the hay and pasture feeding.  Good supplement for the hay and the pasture feed in this category is alfalfa grass. Alfalfa contains higher protein and calcium and less quantity is usually okay. Grass hay and Bermuda grass hay may also be used as complete supplements for normal hay and pasture feeding. Another type of hay is Millet hay. This type of hay has significantly less nutrient value when compared to other grass hays. You should also know that it has a laxative effect when exclusively fed as roughage.

There are also other viable feed substitutes, including sorghum grass. This grass is sometimes not recommended because of its bad effect on the health of horses. There are some studies that indicate it may lead to neurological problems. The other supplements include hay, oat hay, beet pulp, straw, soy hulls, alfalfa hay, Bermuda grass hay, and millet hay.  All of these can be successfully used as a roughage substitute. There are also other sources of moderate fiber feeds, including hay and pasture feeding in the horse feed, like rice, bran, wheat, bran, and oats.

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Draft horses are often thought of as the classic workhorse. By definition this means that the horse has been adapted for drawing heavy loads. Sometimes workhorses are also described as dray horses or draught horses. A workhorse is not always breed specific, but the description is often used for any breed of horse that is physically suited to pulling heavy loads. As you probably know, there is a big difference between the workhorse and the show horse.

Here is a brief overview of the workhorse. The Draft horse comes from Europe, and it is thought to precede the invasion of the Romans. There are many popular breeds that have traditionally been known as workhorses. These include Shire, Percheron, Belgian and the Clydesdale horses. These classic workhorses are large and known for their endurance, strength and good disposition.

The Belgian horse is perhaps one of the most popular workhorses and a long history of pure European descent, becoming most popular during the Middle Ages. As its name implies, the breed was exported from Belgium and into many European countries between the 15th and 16th centuries. The Belgian horse was imported into the United States in the 1880s. It was slow to gain favor because of its large and slightly cumbersome appearance. This horse is known for its barrel-like, burly appearance and its coat, which is normally chestnut or sorrel in color. This popular workhorse stands about 17 hands or 68 inches and weighs in at over 2,000 pounds.

The Clydesdale is a workhorse favorite that comes from Scotland. This breed is often compared to the Shire horse, although it’s not quite that heavy. The Clydesdale is characterized by its springy and graceful step. Clydesdales became very popular due to their good disposition. Tradesmen who used them to transport commercial goods have also favored them. The Clydesdale is a favorite of today’s horse enthusiasts who appreciate the beauty of this horse. Clydesdales have white markings on the face and legs, a lavish feathering around the fetlocks and average a height of roughly 16 hands or 64 inches. They are known to weigh in at around 1,800 pounds.

Another breed of draft horse that was developed in North Western France is the Percheron, of Flemish origin with some Arabian horse blood. The Percheron is a very heavy horse but still has a considerable amount of stamina and is a very good trotter. Armored knights and general freight labor used this horse in the Middle Age. This was once considered the most popular draft horse in America, famous for its natural beauty. Percheron coats are nearly always gray or black in color. These horses stand just over 16 hands in height or 64 inches and weigh in at least 2,000 pounds.

Another large powerful draft horse is the Shire breed. They closely resemble the Clydesdale in size, weight and height and originate from central England. They are known for having long lustrous hair that grows from knee to hock.

Many horse lovers prefer the show horse, although the workhorse continues to remain viable. Show horses are very different than the average workhorse. The breed standards of show horses strive to produce the best athletic horse. The most desirable traits of a show horse may include:

1. Motion: A show horse must demonstrate visible power and balance from the hindquarters. The front legs should demonstrate extension and flexibility.

2. Neck: A show horse has a high neck on the shoulder. These horses have a fine throatlatch and are shapely without a pronounced crest.

3. Head: A show horse has a short and small head with large eyes and small ears. The facial profile should be straight or concave.

4. Withers: The withers are to be pronounced, with a very deep and laid back shoulder.

5. Proportionate: A level top line with a proportionate hip.

6. Legs: Straight and correct.

7. Bone structure: A refined structure throughout, especially in the girth, chest, shoulders and hips.

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Helping your mare bring new life can be one of the most exciting yet stressful moments of your life. With so much time and money invested, not to mention the great emotional investment, it can be wonderful yet stressful to help your mare deliver a young and healthy foal. Here are some baby basics for helping your mare birth a new life.

You should strive to learn everything you can about parturition before it takes place. Some mares make it very obvious that they are ready to give birth, while others may simply lie down with no other indication. How can you tell that your mare is ready to give birth? The first real indication of parturition involves the distension of the udder that first appeared two to six weeks before giving birth. The second indicator should become obvious around seven to ten days before birthing. This happens when the shrinking muscles in the hindquarters become evident and the ligaments and pelvic muscles begin to relax. Roughly four to six days before giving birth, the nipples will fill with milk. You may notice a waxy secretion on the nipple that will stay until roughly 24 hours before birthing. The waxy secretion will fall off and the milk will be allowed to drip when the mare gives birth.

In the first stage of birth, the mare may appear restless and nervous, constantly getting up and lie down. You may notice the following signs: sweating, switching her tail, frequent urination and mild signs of colic. This stage takes about two to three hours until the uterine contractions begin. Stage two is characterized by the ejection of up to five gallons of chorioallantoic fluid, such as when her water breaks. This first stage tends to begin at night.

The second stage of birth is technically known as activation. In this stage, uterine contractions will increase and the cervix will become dilated. You may notice that the mare lies down and gets up several times. The feet of the foal will come out, the bottoms of its hooves facing down with the nose just behind them. This activation stage usually takes about 10 to 15 minutes.

The expulsion of the foal comes next. This is stage is when the mare lies down and begins her labor. An increase in uterine contractions will push out the foal in roughly 15 minutes. In most cases, the mare will lie down, allowing herself about ten minutes of rest. Meanwhile, the foal will orient itself to its new surroundings. If the umbilical cord does not break immediately following birth, the chord will probably break off when the foal stands up for the first time. The stump should be treated with a solution of iodine after the chord breaks off.

The last stage of parturition involves the ejection of the membranes. During this period, the mare can very well experience abdominal pains. These will be similar to symptoms of colic. This final stage normally happens within 15 to 60 minutes. Contact your veterinarian immediately if the placenta has not been passed after six hours. The placenta must be passed; otherwise it can cause serious problems including infertility, laminitis and metritis.

Fortunately, most mares do not have exceptional difficulty during parturition and develop dystocia. Allow your mare plenty of privacy during this period, but do keep an eye on progress carefully. Your mare does not need you in the stall coaching her, but you should definitely watch the process through a window or by using a monitor. The parturition process most commonly begins at night, with special delivery occurring normally in the early morning. The process can occur fairly quickly. Problems are most likely to occur during stage two, also known as the activation stage. Whatever you do, never rush a mare into delivery. Keep your vet in close contact in case anything should go wrong.

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Anyone who expects to raise healthy livestock these days should know the basics of animal vaccination. The new horse owner should be no exception.  Here are a few basic medical terminologies of vaccination that you will probably grow more familiar with as you learn more about vaccination. These include, oxoid, antitoxin, passive and active immunity and complex term attenuated vaccines. Here is a brief overview that will hopefully get you up to speed in case you don’t recognize these terms.

Passive Immunity

Passive immunity is most often described as the amount of resistance power that the mother passes to its offspring through the first milk. Antiserum injections are artificial means for passing such temporary resistance. This important antiserum is made from the blood serum of animals that already have developed this immunity. These provide protection against canine distemper, human measles and other diseases.

Active Immunity

Active immunity describes the process of antibodies in systems that are created by the animal itself after contracting and recovering from a disease. This principle is used in the development of all kinds of vaccines.

Attenuated vaccines

All vaccines are initially produced from viruses that produce diseases in a weakened state. This ensures that the vaccinated test subject or animal does not contract the deadly disease. Only a mild version of symptoms of a disease can help ensure long lasting immunity. A virus is either dead or living, but attenuated known as the modified live virus.  Another type of active vaccine is known as the toxoid, which combats the toxins of a bacteria rather than a virus.

The Horse Owner’s Guide

Horses are highly prone to viral and bacterial attacks. These attacks are often of varying degrees, from mild to debilitating diseases. Most horse owners don’t recognize the importance of a scientific and well-planned vaccination program. This can be a key factor for the successful management of your horses. Your horses have a greater chance of contracting diseases on the move. A charted immunization program provides a basic care plan for a horse to remain viable and healthy. A vaccination program will vary depending on the type, number, and purpose of the animals reared. You will need guidance from a good vet for putting together a good vaccination program.

A Few Common Tips For The Vaccination Program

Visit your vet to get started on a good vaccination program. Your horse will likely require booster doses of vaccines. These are the most important and should be administered at suggested intervals. You should follow your vet’s recommendations carefully and follow the vaccination program to a tee.

Besides the vaccination program, you should make sure to rear your horse in a healthy environment, providing proper nutrition that helps build disease resistance. You will also want to administer the correct vaccine at the right time. A vaccination can be counter-productive if not given at the proper interval or dose.

Vaccines should always be kept in refrigerated conditions. Gloved hands should administer them. Be careful not to use expired vaccines that may not act on the animals.  Administering the injection can be tricky. Beginners often make the error of giving a subcutaneous injection in place of an intramuscular injection, which tends to defeat the purpose of vaccination.  Always give the proper doses and use a clean and hygienic syringes or disposable needles. You will most likely require the help of a vet to set up your vaccination program.

Vaccinations are to be used in order to prevent sickness or to reduce the intensity of illness.  Make sure you understand the whys and how’s of putting your horse on the right kind of vaccination schedule. This is a crucial part of keeping your horse healthy, happy and disease-free for years to come.

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